For many years the inner city suburb of Leichhardt in Sydney was known as 'Dykeheart'; the place where lesbians drank beer, walked their dogs, and hung out at the local Italian cafes.

In the late 80's, Dykes on Bikes, the motorcycle club famous for leading the Lesbian and Gay Mardi Gras Parade every year, started meeting at the Leichhardt Hotel. Within a few years, lesbians began to migrate to its wide streets and affordable housing, particularly as other queer populated suburbs such as Balmain and Darlinghurst became increasingly expensive to live in. The local women's health centre began focussing on lesbian health issues, the Leichhardt council started running free self defence courses for lesbians, the nearby Aquatic Centre became a popular perving spot and hey presto! Dykeheart was born.

Nowadays, the inevitable has happened - gay neighbourhoods are strangely attractive to everyone else - housing prices have sky-rocketed and many of the girlshave left Dykeheart. The Leichhardt Hotel had a change of management, and now Dykes on Bikes meet at the Vic on the Park Hotel in Marrickville (a suburb no doubt soon to become another gay neighbourhood!). The nearest lezzo friendly watering hole (that's Australian for hotel or nightclub) is at Caesar's, a little down the road in Camperdown.

Still, Leichhardt is the place to go for great coffee and Italian food, and you will see lots of lovely lesbians strolling around; but for a truly queer Sydney experience, you'll need to travel a short distance to Newtown. Affordable living prices, good cafes and queer shops and venues have ensured a lively homosexual population. Wander down King St any time of the night or day and it is absolutely assured you will cross paths with tattooed butches, lipstick lesbians, schoolgirl 'best friends', feral queers, and assorted stunning Sapphics.

The Newtown Hotel is a favourite gay drinking spot in King St; and the Bank Hotel near the train station is an absolute must on a Wednesday evening. Just a little further down the road we find Erskineville, home to the Imperial Hotel. In addition to a free nightclub on the weekend, the women only (audience and performers) strip show 'Gurlesque', and the girl bands' night 'Scooter' can be found there.

Worth a visit:
Glebe markets every Saturday in Glebe
Women's Library, Newtown
Cunning Linguists, women's writings at Generation X Cafe, Newtown
Bar Italia for cheap and fantastic pasta, Leichhardt
The 40 Watt Club for girls and friends, Fridays at the Lansdowne Hotel, Chippendale
Coogee Women's Pool, Coogee

How to get around:
Sydney has an admirable public transport system, with buses, ferries and trains to get you just about everywhere. Go to www.sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au or call 131 500 for a helpful transport information service.

How to find out what's on:
Pick up any street mag with a nude man on the cover - there are two weekly free gay newspapers in Sydney, and the monthly 'Lesbians on the Loose' - all can be found in most cafes and shops in Glebe, Newtown, Erskineville and Leichhardt.

Where to stay:
Australian Youth Hostels Association, Camperdown +61 2 9565-1699
Gladstone Park Hotel, Leichhardt +61 2 9569-4057
Australian Sunrise Lodge, Newtown +61 2 9550-4999
Glebe Private Hotel, Glebe +61 2 9552-3087