Gay holidays to UK don't have to be all about London, Brighton and Manchester. Head north to Scotland and set off for a couple of Britain's thriving metropolises. Edinburgh and Glasgow are both compact city of style, boasting some beautifully historic buildings and great architecture, with plenty of shops and museums to keep you entertained. Its growing, lively and cosmopolitan gay scene is attracting more and more visitors, and when you add that to quality restaurants and long pub opening hours, you've got Europe's most exciting cities. Read on to find out the must-sees and where the gaydar is unashamedly buzzing. In traditional Scottish fashion, it will leave you feeling whisky-warm inside!
From top: Holyrood Palace, Blue Moon Café, Ardmor House and Princess St at Hogmanay.
EDINBURGH
Edinburgh is a city that knows how to blend modern and medieval. First time visitors are usually godsmacked at just how pretty it is. Its superb architecture ranges from ancient churches to monumental Victorian masterpieces - all dominated by Edinburgh Castle in the city's heart. Pick any street to stroll and you'll be wowed by sudden vistas of rugged summits, memorial-laden hills and erstwhile-outlying villages that inch ever closer to the vibrant city centre. Its multicultural population along with its vibrant pub and club scene, college and gay scene, combined with its full-on festivals, make it a fabulous city ready to take on the world.
MUST SEE
First time visitors should start on the Royal Mile which runs from the imposing castle down to Holyrood Palace, the Queen's official residence. Crammed with interesting shops, cafes, restaurants and attractions, there is enough to keep you busy. Across Princes St Gardens lies the New Town, built during the 18th Century. With its imposing streets and grand squares, it is recognised as one of the masterpieces of Georgian town planning.
Next stop is The Royal Museum of Scotland, a Victorian building of striking exterior, which houses an eclectic and comprehensive series of exhibitions. The University of Edinburgh, founded in 1583, is one of Britain's oldest, biggest and best universities. The students make a major contribution to the lively atmosphere of Grassmarket, one of the city's nightlife centres. If you'd like to know how whisky is manufactured, stop by the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre. And if you are looking for "the" view, head to Calton Hill, at the east end of Princes St.
GAY SCENE
The gay scene is small but vibrant and welcoming. Much of it is located around New Town's Broughton St, known affectionately as 'The Pink Triangle'. You'll see a whole array of places both 100% gay or all mixed up. Find out what's happening through the listings in Scotsgay magazine (www.scotsgay.com) and The List; and propose a toast to new Scottish adventures!
The Blue Moon Café is one of the best places in town to get the low-down on gay current events, parties, and activities. In addition to the friendly atmosphere, there's a good menu with a mix of snacks and bistro cuisine. Other options are Habana, voted Best Gay Pub by Gay Edinburgh; and Planet Out. The Laughing Duck has re-opened, reclaiming its title as the longest running gay bar in town. Crawl onto a big stack of cushions at the Brass Monkey with a pint of lager and enjoy movies screened all evening in their bohemian back room (erm…not that kind). Wherever you go, you'll end up at CC Blooms on Leith Walk, which is the not-in-London disco par excellence. Every subgenre of gay boy is here while the music is commercial, anonymous hi-energy of the gayest kind. This is the place to see and be seen.
ACCOMMODATION
Good bets for affordable but chic accommodation are the gay-run Ardmor House (www.ardmorhouse.com). Room starts at £32 per person. Dublin Street Stay (www.dublinstreet.co.uk) is a luxury city-centre apartment sleeps from 1-6 people right in the trendy gay area. A twin-share room costs from £99. While not strictly gay, the Tankard Guest House (www.tankardguesthouse.com) is gay-friendly. Located right opposite the Townhouse Sauna, this is a perfect place to call your base; being close to theatres, shopping and transportation. Room costs from £22 per person including breakfast.
If you want, the Malmaison (www.malmaison.com) chain of boutique hotels has a chic branch in Leith. Individually designed room costs from £99 (weekends) and £129 (weekdays). Leith is the recently funkified old fishing port, and the up-and-coming area. Think of it as Edinburgh's version of the Meat Packing District. A more affordable option is Bar Java (www.hotelbarjava.com), offering room from £25 per person.
FESTIVAL
Bearing in mind the Scottish propensity for good old-fashioned revelry, one would expect more than a few choruses of Auld Lang Syne on New Year's Eve. In this spirit Edinburgh hosts 4 days of world-famous festivities. Highlights include the Torchlight Procession on 29Dec, a magical spectacle of light winding its way through the city. The main event is the Royal Bank Street Party with live concert and fireworks set against the dramatic backdrop of the Castle on 31Dec. This is the legendary Hogmanay. More @ www.edinburghshogmanay.org
GLASGOW
There's an old saying that Edinburgh is the capital but Glasgow has the capital. Over the past decade the city has undergone an economic re-awakening, and becoming a centre of style, creativity and artistic energy. It is often described as European in character, for the remarkable diversity of its architecture, for the accessibility of its art, and for the openness of its people. If it's a cracking gay scene you're after, then Glasgow is it. Here you will not only discover the many top-notch gay scenes; but will also experience the friendliness for which the locals are renowned. For all the culture and charm available here, just hanging out is a constant temptation. You have been warned!
From top: Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum, a gay man in a kilt at a parade and Glasgow's queer arts festival, wittily entitled Glasgay!
It's no accident that Glasgow was chosen as both City of Culture and UK City of Architecture and Design. Main attractions are its magnificent Victorian buildings, its museums and art galleries; most of which are free! George Square is a spacious concrete piazza dotted with trees and flowerbeds. Referred to as "Red Square", you can find statues of Queen Victoria and Robert Burns among others besides hundreds of pigeons. To the east is Merchant City, a fashionable place to eat, drink and play. The Necropolis, in the heart of medieval Glasgow, is among the most breathtaking cemeteries on earth.
For those loving the arts, there's an endless choice. The Centre for Contemporary Arts curates exhibitions of current artists making waves. With a striking red sandstone exterior, Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum features a large gallery, full of natural history exhibits and sculptures. On the city's South Side is Pollock Country Park, home of two finest museums, the Burrell Collection and Pollock House. To view the work of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, hailed as one of the principal founders of European Art Nouveau, get the CRM Trail Ticket. It costs £10 and gives entry to all paying Mackintosh attractions, plus unlimited travel on bus and subway services in Greater Glasgow. More @ www.crmsociety.com
GAY SCENE
Gay Glasgow centres around the elegant Merchant City quarter, where you will find not only the majority of the gay establishments, but also some of the best designer stores, top restaurants, trendy bars and stunning architecture. With a cafe and a bar, the Glasgow Gay and Lesbian Centre on Dixon St is one of the best resources the gay community has.
The Polo Lounge is arguably the swishiest gay club in the country with three sizeable rooms, all decked out like an old-style gentlemen's club. The same company also owns the nearby Delmonica's, which is low-key and friendly during the day, loud and trendy at night, drawing huge 20-30ish crowd. Also well worth checking out are Sadie Frost's and Waterloo Bar near the city's Central Station. One of the favourites has to be the Revolver Bar. A stylish basement bar, it attracts a mixed but manly crowd of locals, and featured the best digital jukebox in Glasgow!
ACCOMMODATION
Book yourself into the Belhaven Hotel (www.belhavenhotel.com), located in the gay-friendly West End, or the small-but-perfectly-formed Brunswick Hotel, located close to the bars. Double room starts at £45 and £65 per night respectively. If you want to be in the centre of the action, you can't do any better than Merchant Lodge (www.the-merchant-lodge.sagenet.co.uk), located right outside the gay scenes like The Polo Lounge and Delmonica's. Double room starts at £52 per night.
If you were on a budget, then Euro Hostel (www.euro-hostels.co.uk) is your best option with its cheap central accommodation. Good quality twins, doubles, quads or dorms priced between £14 and £30 per person are a bargain! Other options such as Quality Central Hotel (www.quality-hotels-glasgow.com) and Rennie Mackintosh Hotel are recommended due to its great location and individual charm. Special rates ranging from £35 to £80 per room are available online.
FESTIVAL
Glasgow's queer arts festival, wittily entitled Glasgay!, celebrates its 10th birthday at its 11th shindig in 2004, so expect extra special events. Already the UK's largest multi-arts festival for multi-sexual people, the event offers an eclectic programme of performance, film, theatre, music and visual arts at venues across Glasgow from 1-14Nov. More @ www.glasgay.co.uk
Whatever your reasons for checking out Scotland, you'll find there's a lot going on and a lot to see. More @ www.gayscotland.com/ and www.visitscotland.com/
CHRISTMAS HIGHLIGHTS
Carols, ice-skating and Christmas lights, and many other traditions of the festive period, will be seen and heard all around UK this season. Here's a run down of just some of the highlights available in London. It's time to be merry again!
The tradition of switching on the Christmas lights in London's oldest shopping street, Regent St, reaches its 50th anniversary. On 7 Nov the street will be closed to traffic and a programme of entertainment will climax in the switch on of the lights. More@ www.regentstreetonline.com
Harrods is creating a fairy tale Christmas yet again. The store, which has more than 10,000 square feet devoted to "Christmas World", will be home to a cast of fairy tale characters. Must-have gifts include the Robosapien dancing robot (£79.95). More @ www.harrods.com
For shoppers, Spitalfields and Greenwich Market are two of the many locations selling festive gifts and other delights. The Christmas lights are switched on at Greenwich on 21Nov. More @ www.visiteastlondon.co.uk, which also includes a "Quirky Shopping Guide".
Following the success of last year event, Hampton Court Palace Ice Rink is back for another 6 week season starting from 4Dec. Set in the truly splendid setting of the West Front of the Palace, this is an event not to be missed. More @ www.hamptoncourticerink.co.uk
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PAUL SMITH FRAGRANCE HAMPER: THE WINNER
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