6 Jul 2001

the business of beauty

Since time immemorial, gay men have always been in pursuit of ways to look younger, longer. We take a look at the latest treatments for bringing back youthful, flawless skin in Singapore.

That gorgeous hunk you've been eyeing all night seems almost perfect. A radiant glow surrounds his tanned and fit body, his skin is smooth and taut, his whole being screams youth, until that is, you approach him and his biological age is announced. "Hi! I'm ****, I'm 42…"

Is it a plain case of 'blame it on poor genes'? Or is it possible to actually pay to look that good?

Sadly, despite all the talk about inner beauty being the most important and how character and personality speak more about you than your face, people are awakening to the knowledge that the world more readily favours the beautiful. Never has the universal quest been more ardent than now. In the past, beauty treatments were the domain of "ladies who lunch". Nowadays, anyone from that really cute executive seated across the corridor to your 21 year old sister goes for them.

Of course you would have known that, with so many salons and spas sprouting all over the region these days, one is hard pressed to even take the first step in choosing a treatment suited to your needs. Open today's newspaper and more likely than not, there will be a couple of advertisements offering skincare programmes at a special package deal. The reason why these businesses are doing so well is partly due to our increased fixation on looking good, and partly due to the fact that largely, the industry is recession proof, as one aesthetician noted.

Over the years, improvements in technology and medicine fields have not only improved on current 'beautifying techniques', a number of new treatments are available. The following should give you a good idea of what's in the market, and hopefully give you the basics of each treatment without all the mumbo jumbo. Be warned, instant beauty is not for the penny pinchers.

The hottest 'in' thing now is human growth hormone supplements. It not only promises firmer skin without wrinkles, it essentially offers a younger 'you'. It is the anti-aging product of the moment. Normally produced by your pituitary gland, the human body slows its production of this hormone after you've passed the age of 21. It is really the lack of this hormone that causes us to age. What makes this the hottest product in town now, is the promise it holds. Unlike all the other treatments discussed below, this one is more than skin deep. Besides rejuvenating your skin, it gives you more bounce in your step, better heart rates and promises (gasp!) better sex, among other things. Basically, what this wonder hormone does is to reverse your biological age. Yes, you heard me right. It can and will reverse your biological age. The only catch to this is how you get the hormone into your body.

Many cosmetic firms are banking on topical treatments, expensive face creams promising Mona Lisa's complexion in a jar. Most medical practitioners, however, do not believe these have any effect, partly due to the low concentrations and the fact that the hormone is most effective inside you, not just on the outside. Currently in the market, there are basically three ways to get this youth elixir into your body. There are oral supplements, sub-lingo sprays and injections. These will definitely have more of an effect than topical treatments, with the direct injection being considered the most effective. Doctors do caution, however, as this treatment is relatively new, long term studies to monitor any long term effects this growth hormone may have the body are not available. We recommend you see your nearest general practitioner for more information.
Of course the other 'in' thing on everyone's lips now is photorejuvention (also known as foto facial). Around for about a year, this safe, non-invasive cosmetic procedure can correct a variety of benign skin conditions, from skin imperfections such as open pores and blemishes, signs of aging such as fine lines and uneven skin tone, to unwanted hair. Using Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) technology, these intense pulses of light are injected into the skin treating not only the blemishes but stimulating the skin to produce more collagen, thus treating the skin from inside out. To tailor the treatment to each individual, the intensity, timing and duration of light, the number of pulses and the wavelength of the filter are all adjusted. An average of five to six treatments spaced out with at least three weeks intervals are recommended. In Singapore, foto facials can be had at Innovative Surgery (4710061).

Results are said to be noticeable even after the first treatment as skin appears brighter and more 'rejuvenated'. The different wavelengths and filters ensure that different problems such as pigmentation, unsightly small veins and unwanted body or facial hair can be treated. Anyone can go for this treatment, at almost anytime that is most convenient to you. Part of the revolutionary "lunchtime therapy", a foto facial will set you back by about half an hour, after which you can then return to the office, no redness no scars no bandages. As such, this treatment is very popular among Hollywood celebrities such as Cameron Diaz and Gwyneth Paltrow.

Those with wrinkle problems might want to give some thought to botox or restylane injections. Botox is a purified form of botulinum toxin Type A. Extremely small doses are injected directly into the precise facial wrinkle lines that are caused by facial expression (e.g. forehead lines and crow feet) relaxing them, resulting in the skin being smoothen, without 'freezing' your normal facial expressions.

Restylane is the brand name for a natural material present in our bodies, hyaluronic acid. It is used for deeper and more permanent facial grooves. As it is a totally non-animal product, users allergic to animal products do not have to worry about any allergic reactions to it. Restylane treatments can be tailored to your problems, as it comes in three different gel particle sizes. Restylane can be used to correct wrinkles, shape facial contours and enhance one's lips.

Both are temporary (they require repeated treatments to maintain the effect) and require follow up treatments (effects achieved using Botox lasts up to six months, while Restylane lasts for six to twelve months). Innovative Surgery offers both treatments, with Botox injections ranging from $500 to $800, depending on the extent of the treatment, while Restylane injections cost $1000 and above.

Antioxidants such as Vitamin C and E get rid of the free radicals in your body, also known as cellular waste products. Many in the cosmetic industry believe in the topical application of these antioxidants. Products containing Vitamin C and E from companies such as Lancôme and Estee Lauder have never sold so well. To an extent, they do make the face look slightly brighter and fill out those facial lines, but one dermatologist noted "it isn't permanent and generally doesn't do anything to improve the general health of the skin." If however, you are looking for some immediate radiance, Genesis Spa (3240933) offers a Vitamin C Whitening Facial that promises radiant skin for two weeks for around $150.
Chemical peeling has been around for ages, and is a mainstay of the industry. Popular among those who want tauter, clearer skin, mild acids are applied to the skin to remove the outer layer of dead skin and promote faster growth of new skin. Results vary depending on the strength of the acids used and the frequency of peels. A typical treatment would be about five chemical peels spaced out with at least two-week intervals to allow the skin to recover. The Raffles SurgiCentre's Skin Peel Clinic (3343333) does five peels with free consultation for about $700.

Laser resurfacing is a procedure that utilises a laser to burn off the top layer of skin and encourages the skin to 'self-repair'. A carbon dioxide or erbium laser is used to remove the damaged upper layer of skin, and is generally thought to be more precise and has less bleeding or bruising compared to other invasive resurfacing methods. This is available at Aesthetic Medical Centre (8387930), with treatments from $2,000. A newer procedure that touts less 'downtime' is the Cool Touch Laser. The skin is numbed with a spray of a super cooled gas (cryogen) through the laser hand-piece, then a series of rapid-pulse laser beams are directed at problem areas. Discomfort is minimal due to the cooling spray. The treatment appears to be especially suitable for lines around the eyes and mouth. Skin texture and tightening continues for several weeks after the treatment resulting in subtle, natural rejuvenation. The procedure has to be repeated in a series of three to five visits.

Last but not least, dermabrasion is a highly popular treatment among those wanting to get rid of uneven skin texture and post-acne scars. This treatment involves a mild exfoliation of the skin surface using tools that sand away the skin, and many practitioners use an acid peel in addition to that. You do not have to go back as often to maintain the smooth result, but many are turned off by the harsh method of skin removal. Face of Man (3453323) offers epidermal-abrasion, with prices ranging from $35 to $65, depending on the severity and extent of the treatment rendered.

That said and done, there are a number of things you have to pay particular attention to when shopping around for the above and other skin treatments. Essentially, advises Adam Chua of Face of Man, you have to make sure you are getting customised and individualised treatments suited to your needs. Make sure who you entrust your skin to is someone experienced enough to do the job. A doctor in private practice summed it up this way, "It all comes down to whether the person doing it is skillful and experienced."