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21 Dec 2001

ray of light

Think there is such a thing as a "healthy tan"? Think again. Just like sex, there is no safe, only safer. Get tips for how to keep your skin young and healthy.

SaferTanning
There are plenty of arguments -- and a handful of myths -- that support the idea that you can get a healthy tan. But unless you're using self-tanning lotions and creams, that "healthy" glow you're showing off to your friends may not be so healthy after all. In fact, all that lounging in the sun may lead to premature aging, wrinkles and skin cancer. There is no such thing as a healthy tan from natural sunlight.

Complete sun avoidance, however, is impractical, and in most lifestyles, impossible. Because there is no "healthy tan", and any sun exposure increases the risk of skin cancer and the ability of the skin to cope with age and other environmental insult, it is not feasible to speak strictly of "safe sun-tanning", but, rather in the analogy of "safer sex", "safer sun-tanning". This means choosing circumstances which minimize the risks of tanning, while at the same time enjoying outdoor social activity, sports and (more importantly) looking good.

In and Outof Fashion
Our society has glamorized the suntan as a desirable look, connoting athleticism, leisure, and consequently, wealth. This has not always been the case: in 18th century Europe it was pale skin that was the desired look, connoting no need to work and hence "the good life". Skin tone, like other aspects of our outward appearance, is subject to fashion.

Here Comes the Sun
Not all light is created equal. The rays of the sun contain three major wavelengths: visible light (light which our retinas register), as well as light that we cannot see but nonetheless is present (honeybees can see in the ultraviolet portion of the spectrum; night vision goggles help us to see via infrared).

Ultraviolet light has clearly deleterious effects on the skin, causing premature aging, wrinkles and skin cancer. When we tan in response to ultraviolet (UV) light, our skin is merely trying to protect itself (and us) from this unwanted assault. This is why, strictly speaking, there is no such thing as a "good" tan or a "healthy" tan.

You need to understand more about ultraviolet light to make intelligent decisions about sun exposure. There are two main types of ultraviolet (UV) light: ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB). (Ultraviolet C is filtered by the ozone layer.) UVA rays burn the skin less, but penetrate more deeply and are much more abundant overall in the output of normal sunlight. UVB is much more destructive to the skin, but less abundant.

The time of day also influences the relative proportions of UVA and UVB. UV light is relatively dependent on the angle of the sun's rays, which are much less prevalent in the morning and late afternoon, and are concentrated in the "11am to 3pm" period of the midday -- which not coincidentally is often the hottest time of day. Ultraviolet light stimulates the skin to produce more melanin, which makes the skin look tan. In reality, the skin is trying to protect itself from the real business of ultraviolet light, that is, DNA damage and breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin. Though a tan looks pleasing (even sexy), it is really a "callous" that the skin makes to try to prevent injury to itself.
Choosing a Sunscreen: The Ingredients Matter
The same agents are generally not useful for protection from both UVA and UVB, so sunscreens should contain agents to protect against both.

Furthermore, the SPF system (which most of us are familiar with) applies only to UVB protection, not UVA. A high-grade sunblock without UVA protection is still inadequate. The major exception to this rule is sunscreens that use titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as their block ("chemical-free" sunscreens). Also, be aware that some people are allergic to certain sunscreen agents, such as PABA (though this is not as common as is generally believed).

If you have allergies to preservatives in cosmetics, such as parabens and formaldehyde, you may react to them in sunscreens, too. In general, a sunscreen should have an SPF of at least 15, and up to 30 or more, have some agent which protects against UVA (such as Parsol 1789 or titanium dioxide), and be adequately waterproof depending on your activity level. Remember to re-apply sunscreen frequently for satisfactory protection.

What if I don't use sunscreen?
Several problems may arise if you don't protect yourself from the sun's ultraviolet rays including premature aging and wrinkling (especially fine lines around the eyes), age spots, and general loss of elasticity of the skin, and pre-cancerous and frankly cancerous lesions of the skin.

You are more at risk for sun damage (and more of it) the lighter your skin is. The darker your skin is naturally (the color of the skin of non-sun-exposed buttocks), the more protection you have and the less likely damage is to be done. Tanning does not turn white skin into more sun-tolerant skin. It is the skin's imperfect way of trying to protect itself, inadequately, from the assault of the sun. These adverse effects, especially wrinkling, are likely to progress quickly once they appear. Sunscreen is the best anti-aging "beauty cream" you can use.

Safer Sun
OK, enough nagging (for now). Let's get on with some helpful, concrete suggestions for enjoying the sun and the outdoors.

- Don't forget your sunscreen. In the warm months, especially on leisure days, put sunscreen on first thing in the morning as part of your routine before you go outside, even before you have a cup of coffee on your terrace in the morning.

- Use waterproof sunscreen if you plan to be physically active. Re-apply often, even if the sunscreen is waterproof. Use at least SPF 15 with UVA protection, but the closer you get to SPF 30, the better.

- Stay in the shade when you can. Choose the shady tennis court, not the sunny one. Get a beach umbrella and a pair of sunglasses -- squinting will wrinkle your eyes. Wear a hat. Walk on the shady side of the street if possible. Sit in the shade when you eat lunch. You will get plenty of reflected light, don't worry (imagine opening a roll of film in the shade, thinking that since you're not in the sun the film won't be exposed).
- As much ultraviolet light is reflected as visible light. Sometimes, reflection intensifies light exposure, such as on ski slopes or near the water.

- Stay out of the sun between 11am and 3pm. It's too hot then, anyway.

- Use self-tanning creams to get that "healthy glow". If you want a "healthy glow", try self-tanners. The technology has improved considerably over the last 20 years, and an orange stain is no longer the industry standard.

- Get an annual skin examination from a dermatologist. If you are like most people, you have already had sufficient sun to cause skin cancer. The only way to keep dangerous skin cancers like melanomas from being fatal is to catch them early, before they bleed or become raised. This is the single most important recommendation. All the sunscreen in the world without an annual (more often if something suspicious arises) skin exam (head-to-toe) is inadequate.

- It is a myth that people with dark skin cannot get skin cancer. The chances are less, but checking your skin regularly, especially your hands and feet, is important.

The Sunscreen Paradox
Because sunscreen predominantly protects you from UVB, and since UVB is the wavelength, which burns, and hence limits the time that a fair-skinned person can spend in the sun, sunscreens enable you to spend more time in the sun without burning. Consequently, sunscreens allow you to be exposed to far more UVA than you otherwise would have been able to tolerate. Since some types of skin cancer may be specifically related to UVA exposure (like melanoma), staying in the sun all day and using sunscreen may be counterproductive. But, as we learned above, it's a good idea to stay in the shade when possible, especially during the midday.

If you get a sunburn...
Don't panic, first of all. Drink plenty of fluids and take an anti-inflammatory (such as aspirin, ibuprofen, or naproxin, all available over the counter). If your skin is blistered, see a dermatologist as soon as possible. Moisturize your skin. Learn the lesson.

Signs that something is wrong with your skin
It is normal to acquire pigmented spots. This means moles (nevi) from childhood until about age 50, and seborrheic keratoses (completely benign but often unattractive) from age 25 on.

So how do you know what's dangerous? Well, you can't always tell. A dermatologist can't always tell for certain by just looking at the skin, which is why skin biopsy is important, and sometimes necessary. In general, you should follow the ABCD rule -- look for black or multicolored spots that are: Asymmetrical, have Borders which are irregular, look like it might spread, are not uniform in Color, and have a Diameter larger than a pencil eraser. A raised spot on your skin is not in and of itself dangerous, but this can spell danger in a malignant lesion. Check with a dermatologist right away if a skin spot bleeds, causes persistent burning or rough spots, or is noticeably growing.

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